
Last Thursday, a clutch of Irish-language (Gaeilge) activists burst into Belfast’s gleaming new station shouting “Tír gan Teanga, Tír gan Anam (A country without a language is a country without a soul)”. “What’s this all about?” a woman asked a protesting schoolgirl as activists unfurled the vast red banner of the An Dream Dearg campaign to mark out their sit-in. “We’re protesting for our language rights,” said the girl, “Ach, I’m so proud of youse,” the woman replied. At the same time, some other teenagers walked past, bemused. “Are they chanting in like Gaelic or something?” one giggled. To the tune of Irish folk and rebel songs, the organisers gave rousing bilingual speeches demanding that there be dual-language English and Irish signage at the showpiece new transport hub.
The dispute highlights the extraordinary revival of Irish underway in Northern Ireland, and the country’s divided politics, still overshadowed by its frozen ethnic conflict — both brought to international attention by the new, heavily Irish-language Kneecap film. At his office in West Belfast’s Nationalist Falls Road, An Dream Dearg’s Pádraig Ó Tiarnaigh tells me that after the Troubles, “the Irish language became intertwined with that sense of identity of what people feel to connect them to this place, to their heritage, to that sort of indigenous aspect of language and land”. Yet despite Westminster’s 2022 approval of the landmark Identity and Language Act, he says, “the status quo here is monolingual. It is English only, and by definition, the Irish language is excluded”. Activists face “huge political opposition from the DUP and others not to give any sort of equivalence or legitimacy in public life or in official government legislation to the Irish language”.
Since the passing of the Language Act, Irish has become increasingly part of the country’s public life. On Belfast’s East-West Glider metro system, buses heading to mostly Nationalist West Belfast announce their destinations in both Irish and English; those heading to mostly Unionist East Belfast pointedly do not. Living in a leafy Catholic area, I am surrounded by the Irish language: our street signs are bilingual, and Sinn Féin-branded Go Mall (“go slow”) signs are prominently affixed to trees.
A few weeks ago, our middle child started at an Irish-language nursery, one of more than 50,000 children across the island currently educated in Gaeilge (or in Ulster Irish, Gaeilg); when our youngest child was born, we chose a dual-language birth certificate. In our case, these choices were made for essentially apolitical, even romantic reasons: both my maternal grandparents were native Irish speakers, as were my wife’s family a generation earlier, and we want to undo the recent loss of our ancestral language. But within the context of Northern Irish society, the choice to adopt it is often viewed as an overtly political act, both by its supporters and its detractors.
For Ian McLaughlin, a DUP councillor representing the staunchly Loyalist Shankill area, dominated by paramilitary groups, Irish has become a weapon wielded by the Nationalist community against a politically divided Unionist constituency that is now, in Belfast, a minority. The greatest controversy is over Irish-language signage in “interface areas” — streets where Catholic and Protestant communities abut each other, and where Irish-language signage is routinely defaced. For some, like the Catholic writer Malachi O’Doherty, the presence or absence of Irish street signs may unintentionally function as the equivalent of the paramilitary murals and flags that still mark the transition from one area to another, heightening sectarian divisions.
“I think in many ways, it reflects a change in demographics in this area. That’s fine, but it also is taken by very many people within the Unionist community as Republicanism baring its teeth to show that they have more control in this city,” McLaughlin told me. “In many, many streets and areas, the change in signage was not asked for by the residents. It was asked for by Sinn Féin or other Nationalists and their public and political representatives. So there’s a whole issue in there about the democracy behind this.”
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