Recently, I wrote an article for UnHerd lamenting what feels like the collapse of professional norms within my area of ā broadly speaking ā Left-of-centre journalism.
Using the controversy surrounding a group of Covington Catholic High School students filmed in front of the Lincoln Memorial last year as a prime example, I complained that staffers and contributors at mainstream progressive outlets increasingly seem to see themselves more as activists and cheerleaders whose job is to fall on the “right” side of a given controversy, rather than journalists whose job is to investigate that controversy fairly, with a critical eye.
Not two weeks later, I stumbled into a wonderfully specific example of how these dynamics work in action. It involves Huffington Post, a controversial novel, and imaginary Mexicans eating chicken dipped in barbecue sauce.
In the United States, the book publishing industry ā or parts of it, at least ā is swaying and buckling from certain seismic cultural forces. As Americaās conversations on race and identity have gotten louder and more public, some in and around publishing have argued that the industry is unwelcoming to people who arenāt white, straight, cisgender, and so forth, and that this discrimination is apparent when you look at which books gets published, and by whom.
Thereās more than a kernel of truth to this. Publishing is (and has long been) a redoubt of the privileged, and the editorial offices of major New York publishers tend to be staffed largely with graduates of top colleges. Publishing isnāt quite as lily-white as some claim it is ā yes, itās about 76% white, but thatās in a country thatās about 72% white, and half of all interns are non-white ā but few insiders would argue that there arenāt certain significant issues to address in making it more accessible to a broader swath of the population (which, after all, often leads to better stories anyway).
If the core claims of those criticising publishing on identity grounds are reasonable, that doesnāt mean that individual campaigns targeting supposedly “problematic” books always have been. Far from it, in fact ā in the last few years there has been a succession of fundamentally unfair online pileons targeting books, mostly in young adult publishing, that are deemed offensive and emblematic of publishingās broader diversity issues.
As Kat Rosenfield and others have shown, these campaigns tend to be based on highly exaggerated, ripped-from-context misreadings of the books in question, often spread via social media. Sometimes, for example, the argument a racist character in a book about overcoming racism said something racist, and therefore the book is racist is presented unironically, by grown adults familiar with literary conventions, as evidence of wrongdoing on an authorās part.
In one incident I covered, members of the Twitterati decided a character in the fantasy universe of the then-upcoming novel Blood Heir was black (there was no real evidence to suggest this), decided an allusion to modern-day slave trafficking in Asia was actually aboutĀ American slavery, and decided that they therefore didnāt like the bookās handling of race and slavery.
These campaigns might now be spreading from young adult to general literature. Since late 2019, the biggest story in American publishing has been American Dirt, a novel written by Jeanine Cummins about a Mexican woman, Lydia, and her son, Luca, who are forced to flee their home in Acapulco to the United States after a drug cartel murders much of their family, including Lydiaās husband (Lucaās father), at a relativeās quinceaƱera barbecue.
While the book appears to be selling quite briskly ā reachingĀ Number One on the New York Timesā fiction bestseller list (it now sits at number three) ā it sparked a raging controversy that appears to have popped off after Oprah picked it for her very influential book club. Since then, an endless parade of articles and essays have lamented how deeply offensive and harmful American Dirt is, most of them focused on the fact that Cummins is neither Mexican nor a migrant but a white American-born woman who is a quarter Puerto-Rican.
American Dirtās critics insist, almost unanimously, that it isnāt Cumminsā race that is animating their anger, but rather her handling of the novelās subject matter, combined with the fact that Latino authors, and authors from migrant backgrounds, rarely get seven-figure advances like Cumminsā (you will notice this hefty sum is mentioned quite frequently; the YA campaigns, too, tend to focus on authors who earned enviable advances).
Their campaign has been successful: according to a press release reported on by the LA Times, Macmillan, the parent company of Flatiron Books, which published American Dirt, met with a group of the bookās critics and stated that they would be āsubstantially increasing Latinx representation across Macmillan, including authors, titles, staff and its overall literary ecosystemā as well as to āregroup within 30 days with [the activist group] #DignidadLiteraria and other Latinx groups to assess progress.ā Cumminsā book tour, meanwhile, was cancelled because of safety threats.
His very strange main argument is that Cumminsā erred, somehow, by including real-life places and events in her novel based on the work of Mexican non-fiction writers ā non-fiction writers she explicitly thanks in the bookās Authorās Note, and in one case references in the text of the novel itself. Itās difficult to even suss out a genuine criticism here, given that novelists include real-world elements in their books all the time and, like Cummins, frequently thank the individuals and texts that help inform their world-building.
Schmidtās piece also includes this sentence: ā[Cummins] describes an imaginary country where people put sour cream on their street tacos, dress their chicken with BBQ sauce rather than mole, eat black licorice drops rather than mazapĆ”n, and fear the Bogeyman rather than El Coco. American Dirt is also riddled with linguistic gaffes, including a character thinking of her own mother as abuela (grandma).ā
This is a useful example of how, during a public outrage, so much smoke is generated by bad-faith actors that the casual passerby will assume there must be a roaring conflagration generating it, that whoever is being targeted did something truly wrong.
Because itās remarkable, once youāve read the book, how little there is here, and how conveniently devoid of proper context these examples are. American Dirt contains a single mention of licorice drops ā Lydia recalls that her recently-murdered mother enjoyed that particular candy.
Iām not saying Mexicans are huge fans of black liquorice, but is itĀ impossible a middle-class Mexican woman living in a major city lousy with American tourists (Acapulco) could enjoy, and have access to, that particular candy? And Lydia thinks of her own mother as abuela in the same way an English-speaking person might think of her mother as grandma, because that’s how she’s known to her children.
There are two mentions of “bogeymen” in the book, and they both come in the narratorās voice, not out of the mouths of a Mexican character ā āBecause these are the modern bogeymen of urban Mexico,ā Cummins writes of cartel assassins early on. Later she writes, in relation to a terrible incident in the United States, that āThe vigilantes wanted to stoke community fear and incite outrage by inventing a group of murderous migrant bogeymenā. Thereās no scene in which Mexicans āfear the bogeymanā himself.
As for the sour cream, it is not served with a street taco. Rather, Lydia and Luca buy it in the food court of āa vast shopping mall with a Sephora and a Panda Express and even an ice rinkā in Mexico City ā one which also includes a Crepe Factory. The idea of an establishment like this, plopped in the middle of a cosmopolitan megacity, having American-style sour cream, is a lot less ridiculous than the image Schmidt is attempting to conjure.
Itās Luca who eats the tacos with sour cream; heās the English-speaking son of middle-class Mexican parents and grew up, again, in an American-tourist-heavy city, so in context, the idea of him enjoying sour cream isnāt ridiculous, either. The point, here and elsewhere among some of Cumminsā least honest critics, is to make her look as ignorant as possible, even if that requires massaging the facts a bit.
But when it comes to the chicken dressed with barbecue sauce, the facts arenāt even massaged, but rather snapped in half like a wishbone: there is no scene, anywhere in American Dirt, in which a single Mexican slathers a single piece of barbecued chicken in barbecue sauce. It simply doesnāt happen.
I think Schmidt confused himself. Right at the beginning of the novel, when Luca and Lydiaās extended family is murdered (Iād say āspoiler alertā but the bookās literal first sentence is about a bullet whizzing past Lucaās head as the massacre commences), Cummins writes: āThe clatter of gunfire outside continues, joined by an odor of charcoal and burning meat. Papi is grilling carne asada out there and Lucaās favorite chicken drumsticks. He likes them only a tiny bit blackened, the crispy tang of the skins.ā
Then, a bit later, as Lydia, in shock, surveys the scene of the massacre with investigators: āIn the shade of the backyard, thereās the sweet odor of lime and sticky charred sauce, and Lydia knows she will never eat barbecue again.ā
Nowhere here, in the only mention of a sweet and/or sticky sauce that could possibly apply to Schmidtās claim, is there any evidence of a Mexican person eating chicken with barbecue sauce on it. These passages prove neither that the sauce in question is barbecue sauce (all we know is that itās sticky, at least when charred) or that it was intended for chicken (“Papi” is grilling both carne asada, meaning beef, and Lucaās āfavourite chickenā).
I emailed Schmidt to ask him about this, and he replied that āThe sauce is described as sticky, sweet sauce that is put on barbequed chicken.ā But nowhere does Cummins say the sauce is for the chicken, and even if she did, that wouldnāt make it American-style barbecue sauce, which is the basis of Schmidtās accusation of cultural illiteracy.
I found out who the storyās two editors were and emailed one of them about this, suggesting she correct this. She forwarded my request to the other, a fairly well-known progressive journalist ā one whose name I recognised and respect. āThe debate about the sauce seems like you’re projecting your own guess on the text rather using the context clues,ā she wrote, declining to correct the story.
I was very surprised by this, and I found myselfĀ dwelling on it ever since, somewhat fixated. This barbecue chicken issue is a little thing, sure, but itās a big little thing. That is, whatever disagreements may exist between journalists, we all agree ā or at least publicly claim to agree ā that, at root, our job is to print stuff thatās true.
Other critiques of American Dirt may be unfair, but theyāre fundamentally subjective. This one isnāt: Huffington Post is telling its readers that a controversial book was written by someone so ignorant of Mexican culture she thought Mexicans dress their barbecue chicken the exact same way Americans do, even though this simply doesnāt happen anywhere in the book. If this doesnāt warrant a correction, what does? If we canāt agree on the norm āDonāt print stuff that plainly isnāt true,ā what norms can we agree on? This is the lowest-hanging journalistic fruit imaginable.
I donāt think Cummins or Flatiron Books are blameless here. Setting aside linguistic critiques of the bookās Spanish Iām ill-equipped to evaluate, they did make two very silly unforced errors that warrant criticism: an Authorās Note in which Cummins refers to her previously “undocumented” husband without noting he is Irish (which, yes, is still a stressful situation to be in, but is miles away from being an undocumented Mexican migrant), and a book party at which barbed wire was used, rather insensitively, as a “cute” decorating motif.
But these issues donāt bring us anywhere near the apocalyptic storyline that has settled in as fact ā that this is a disastrously ignorant, under-researched, harmful book ā in some quarters. Watching the outrage bloom has been deeply depressing, and has only solidified my worries about rightside norms in journalism.
Itās one thing for resentful critics, eager to jump on outrage-bandwagons, to publish bad-faith misreadings of books on random blogs or their Facebook walls. There will always be unfair critics. But when major outlets like the New York Times and Huffington Post are helping to amplify this nonsense, without even checking whether the critics have closely read the books they claim to be furious about? When they wonāt even correct textbook errors which hinge on objective facts about the contents of the books in question? We have a problem.
Join the discussion
Join like minded readers that support our journalism by becoming a paid subscriber
To join the discussion in the comments, become a paid subscriber.
Join like minded readers that support our journalism, read unlimited articles and enjoy other subscriber-only benefits.
Subscribe