'At the mention of Tony Blair, the same lady hissed.' (Getty)

Turn right out of the station, head down past the village green and the yoga studio and the osteopaths, and you will eventually arrive at the pebbledash semi that made Keir Starmer. Once upon a time, Hurst Green may have been a place of struggle and strife for the Starmers, but today it is one of tranquilising Home Counties comfort and wealth, where the gently rolling wooded hills roll give the illusion of isolation without any of the actual discomfort.
In one sense, the road where Starmer grew up — Tanhouse Road — bathes contentedly in this tranquil Surrey slumber. It is a pleasant land preserved like some vision of Danny the Champion of the World by the socialism of Clement Attlee. There is a stream at one end and a pub at the other, as well as a local “gypsy camp” crouching on the hill behind.
It was here that I found myself earlier this week, traipsing around in the heat of the British summer, trying to understand the agonised soul of Tory England as it contemplated its own annihilation. Trapped between the barbarian tribes of Reform, Labour and the Liberal Democrats, it is unsure whether to wave the white flag or to launch a final quiet fight for salvation at the ballot box on Thursday.
And yet, today, you don’t have to walk far from Starmer’s old front door to be shaken from this daydream. The Haycutter, the pub at the end of Starmer’s old road, is a case in point. Though the name nods to the area’s not-so-distant past — the land behind Tanhouse Road, once owned by the Starmers and used as a Donkey Sanctuary, is still used for haymaking by a local farmer — The Haycutter is no drinking hole for farm hands, if it ever was. Instead, it is a place of derivative country chic, all gins and faded wood, Asahi on tap and the obligatory burrata and truffle fries for “starters and nibbles”.
It was here that I found a group of retired women, florally Tory and on the rosé. I mentioned that Starmer had grown up just a few doors down. “Well he should’ve known better, then,” quipped one with an authoritative grin. At the mention of Tony Blair, the same lady hissed. All were dismayed at the state of the country and the idea of a Labour government, but greeted the prospect of Reform becoming the opposition with horror. And yet, they have still not made up their minds who to vote for. “There definitely needs to be a change,” said one. “But frankly there’s no one to change to.” If Sunak had lost these ladies of Surrey, the game was surely up. But had he?
Travelling through the North Downs and into the Kentish Weald beyond — a land now teeming with vineyards rather than hops (for shame) — I encountered this same message of agonised indecision again and again. Even on Tanhouse Road, one woman stopped me as I went poking around looking for clues for the life Starmer once led, and told a similar story: she was unsure who to vote for, and desperately disappointed that, at that moment, no-one had come knocking on her door to persuade her. And she once knew and liked the Starmer family.
For many, it seems, the election has barely even begun to penetrate their lives. There seems to be a hesitation about what to do about it — a bewildered apathy. Most I spoke to wanted the Government squashed, but beyond that were unsure. And this feeling seems to be felt particularly strongly by women.
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